6.09.2010

HRW10-D01 Dress CF Panel


Reglan sleeve didn't worked well to the toile. the corner of the sleeve pattern was too sharp to be fitted in and width of the bodice panel has extanded into sleeve. so i had to adjsut pattern by making smoother line along reglan line and reduce the width of the bodice panel.






Diamond shaped centre front panel was really hard to sew. matching point into corner was chellenging and it was hard to make it flat, each time i sew the corner there was tucks made into the corner point.

HRW10-D01 Dress CF Panel

HRW10-D01 Dress Back

This toile has extanded too much of its width along the bodice. so i took out from the side seams and centre back seam. it was hard to change the centre back panel because it was made all in a pararell line but adjustment line was shaped into the back silhouette. For more shaping along the body line (not the skirt), bodice panel, only above the waist line, reduced its width by the dart into seam line.

6.05.2010

HRW10-D01

Side shaping --> too much wide

6.02.2010

HRW10-P01 Pant Pocket Corner fixing


The corner of the pocket opening didn't work well in first toile. Pattern was quite logical but the sewing was terrible. This is the other little sample for that. i tried severel times and at the end the problem was simple. the seam line should be lined up with the other seam line.... humm.. i don't know how to explain without showing the real thing. but as the pictures below shows seam should be clipped before sewing of corner so it doesn't interrupted the way it goes.


HRW10-D01 Dress

5.31.2010

Coat toile. Collar Extansion//

This is the toile of the coat. Collar should have been stand out more towards to the back and level with back neck point. on the flat pattern i couldn't imagine how it will work but this toile adjustment let me think of how the pattern should be. imaginary slash and open line was made then inserted extra fabric into it, it was beeter to have more slash and open line than one, then to make it level to highest back neck point i used ruler to measure how much it has to be extanded and draw the measurements to the pattern.